Due to Turkmenistan closing its borders, I had to take the ferry across the Caspian to Aqtau in Kazakhstan and then cut across the desert to Uzbekistan - four days of hot, dusty riding although the route was not as bad as I had feared it would be. On the plus side was the opportunity to camp out in the desert each night.

April is five feet tall and thought it was a long way to the ground from the back of Thelma. Whilst staying with friends in Yerevan (Armenia) she spotted a bike that was much more her size.

April arrived in Tiblisi to find not one but two of us travelling by motorcycle, but in very different ways. This is Jean-Yves with his Vespa that he's going around the world on- going back to her Parisien roots, April was tempted to travel pillion with him.

This is a rainy morning in the seaside town of Batumi on the B;ack Sea. I had packed up ready to go and gave Natia, the waitress from my favourite cafe a spin around town. And for the eagle-eyed mongst you, yes, that is a one way sign (pointing the other way) that I am going past. The Georgians didn't seem to mind my illegal maneouvres.

For those who may think that Thelma is a little on the large side, I took the opportunity to try out a smaller bike in Romania (thanks to Oliver). To be honest I felt a bit unsafe and wobbly on it so maybe I will stick to my BMW after all.

The late night exchange in Putney of Thelma´s shock absorber for the one that Neil (Steptoe) kindly donated. It was bit of a team effort due to the shorter centre stand I have, so Ian is lending a hand while I oversee and take pictures. Thank you so much to Steptoe from the GS Club for his help and generosity.

Sunday 10th May - Day 2

The first of the thousand mile pictures - 1000 miles and I was on the outskirts of Wurzburg, Germany, having to mind Willi the dog for his bemused owner whilst he took my photo. I´m a bit frazzled looking as I had been on the road for quite a long time already that day.

On my own looking at the lack of definite trails to head up into the Andes.

Roast guinea pig was on the menu at lunchtime- not the most appetising sight (nor my filthy face after five hours of hard riding through the dust and dirt). As a vegetarian, I was excused eating the family pet and instead was given a soup of dubious origin.

Through working on their bikes, I got to know many of the Highway Patrol riders in the Seattle area - most of whom said they would be too scared to even consider the journey I was on.

I was given a great send-off once Thelma was back on the road and was offered an outrider escort as I left the city.